Wornandwound Oak & Oscar Burnham Review

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Zach Weiss

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Over the last couple of years Oak & Oscar has slowly, but surely built up a solid following. Many brands do this, but what makes it particularly interesting in this case is that founder Chase Fancher started this process a couple years before actually having a watch for sale. In fact, we first met the Chicago native not on US soil, but in Basel, at one of the horrendously over-priced coffee bars within the shows halls. It was there that Chase first told us about his brand, his initial watch, the Burnham, and his goal to make something great.

Fast forward and Oak & Oscar have become one of the more talked about micro brands of the year. Between a strong following of friends and fans from the #watchfam and #redbarcrew scenes on instagram, his brand got off to a very strong start. He also participated in our Wind-Up: NYC event, where his booth was regularly full of intrigued watch enthusiasts.



Before getting to the watch, part of what set Oak & Oscar apart was that he wasn’t trying to make the most affordable watch out there, mixing the most expensive components into a razor-thin-margined machine. Rather, he set out to make something luxurious in the same way a nice Filson briefcase is luxurious…something built well and meant to last. To that end, his approach was a bit different. His watch was developed slowly, which shows in the execution, and while the case components were manufactured overseas, he sourced various American partners to tie it all together. So, his leather strap is made in Indiana, his Nylon is from Crown & Buckle, his watch wallet is made in Chicago, and the watch itself is assembled in Ohio by Chris Wiegand/Lüm-Tec. Lastly, his movement is from Soprod, giving the insides Swiss-made credibility.

So, it’s this hodgepodge of people, places and things…which is more and more becoming the reality of watches. It’s not American-made, nor is it Asian-made. It’s a mix of things sourced from specialists in each thing, which is the modern way of doing things. What you get in the end, is a watch with a story that has been touched by many hands along the way. The accessories that join it a more like curated extras than standard parts, and their craft all stand out. So, when you see the $1,650 price tag, keep in mind that it’s more than just a watch with stock straps and packaging. Apart from that, what interested me is that Oak & Oscar are one of the few brands pursuing watches with a sort of American design language. It doesn’t look like a Swiss watch. It’s a bit more blunt, a bit warmer. As micro brands continue to pop up in the US, few have felt this way to me, which is something I think is lacking.



Oak & Oscar Burnham Review


Case: Steel
Movement: Soprod SOP A-14
Dial: Matte Gray
Lume: BGW9
Lens: Sapphire
Strap: Leather + Nylon
Water Res.: 100m
Dimensions: 42 x 50.5 mm
Thickness: 12 mm
Lug Width: 22 mm
Crown: 7 x 3mm
Warranty: 2 years
Price: $1,650

Case


For the Burnham, Oak & Oscar went with a very classic case shape. It’s got the lines of a pilot or field watch, giving it a robust build and masculine scale. At 42 x 50.5 x 12mm it’s a medium/large sports watch with a modest lug-to-lug, keeping it wearable. It’s a nice proportion that works. Clearly, the concept was to make an every day watch with some heft and size that, with the various leather goods that accompany it, will appeal to the workwear-wearing type. While I often prefer watches to teeter closer to 40mm (though I have plenty that are larger), conceptually it works with the Burnham. It’s a watch designed in a more “American” vernacular; it’s goes for toughness over elegance.



So, with the shape, you’ll find thick lugs that taper in with a curve that follows the case profile. The sides are flat all around and given a brushed finish. On top is a stout bezel with an beveled edge, also all brushed. The finishing is worth note. While the same all around, it’s well executed. The brushing has a nice grain, perhaps a touch coarser than what you typically see, and the edges all around are nice and sharp.

At three is a screw down crown that measures 7 x 3mm, making it wide and flat. This works well with the case as the flatness prevents the crown from digging into your wrist. The crown sides are toothed in a typical fashion, making it easy to grab, and that flat outside surface is marked with Oak & Oscar’s symbol. It’s all well executed.



The case back features a display window, and a wide steel rim with various watch details and case-wrench marks. Perhaps the most significant is that of the serial number, xxx/300, indicating which of this fairly limited production you have. Through the window the Soprod A-10 is visible. It’s a very attractive movement with blued screws, perlage and a custom rotor with four cut-through stars nodding to the Chicago flag. Even the bearing in the center has concentric graining and blued screws. While the A-10 certainly adds cost to the overall package, it’s one of the nicer looking movements you’ll find in a watch under $2k.

All in all, it’s a well done case with solid execution. My one gripe is that it is very common looking. Yes, it works, but it doesn’t speak to any signature design concept or aesthetic. And while custom and made to order, there is no real sense of that, which wouldn’t normally be an issue, but this isn’t an inexpensive timepiece. For me, the more I spend, the more unique elements I want.



Dial


The dial of the Burnham is a unique spin on a field watch, that simultaneously feels classic and new. Whereas the case might have felt a bit too classic, the dial takes familiar elements, alters them, dresses them up and creates an aesthetic that feels more unique to the brand. The first thing one notices about the dial is the color. It’s a medium almost neutral gray, which is relatively uncommon, especially for a matte surface. Typically grays are more metallic, silver or sunburst in nature. It’s a cool color that I found very appealing.

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