Z
Zach Weiss
Guest
Feed from Wornandwound.com .Borealis Watch Forum takes no responsibility for any of the content posted.
Jump hours are one of the more uncommon, but cool complications you can find on a watch. Well, in my opinion that is. By removing the hour hand and creating a digital readout, one that in a true jump hour instantly changes at the top of the hour, you get something that is both interesting and practical. Jump hours are really easy to read at a glance. Visually, they are then just intriguing pieces that, depending on the design, will have a very different look and feel from you standard three-hander.
Jump hours are so uncommon that we’ve actually only have reviewed one in the history of w&w. Well, today we’re going to change that with the Oris Artelier Jumping Hour. Part of one their dressier lines, the Jumping Hour stands out from the collection not just because of the complication, but also for having a rather unmistakeable, heavily textured dial. Using a Dubois Depraz module on a Sellita SW 300-1 movement, the Oris Artelier Jumping Hour has a price tag of $4,600, making it an expensive piece. Whether the complications justifies the cost, is the question.
Oris Artelier Jumping Hour Review
Case: Steel
Movement: Oris 917 (SW 300-1 w/ DD 14400 Module)
Dial: Light silver
Lume: No
Lens: Sapphire
Strap: Leather
Water Res.: 50M
Dimensions: 40.5 x 47 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lug Width: 21 mm
Crown: 4.8 x 3.6mm
Price: $4,600
Case
The case of the Oris Jumping Hour is simple at a glance, but reveals a mix of interesting geometry and superb finishing upon closer inspection. Measuring 40.5 x 47 x 11.3mm it’s a solid watch that is perhaps large to be a classic dress watch, but a nice size as a formal leaning everyday watch. That said, the size is actually tempered by the conical design of the case. The case tapers towards the crystal, getting narrower as it goes up. So, it’s only 40.5 at the case back, but at the bezel it’s closer to 38mm. Thus, when you look down at it, it appears smaller than it is.
The conical shape isn’t the only interesting detail. The lugs, which are thick and a touch sporty with their aggressive angles, are actually part of the case back rather than mid-case. They come up, fitting perfectly in indentations on the case side, and finish just above the mid case. From above, the lugs appear to cut through, and attach straight to the bezel. The result of all this is some nice complexity that while subtle, adds to the overall look and luxurious feel of the watch. These are details that require great machining and precise tolerances to pull off cleanly.
In terms of finishing, the case is predominantly polished, but features just enough brushing to have some nice texture and surface variation. The top edge of the mid-case, just before the bezel, has a nice bevel going all around which is brushed. Then the top of the lugs and beveled edge of the lugs are also brushed. The quality of the brushing is noticeably nicer than average. It’s a slightly coarser grain of brushing with very clear grain direction. The edges between the polished and brushed areas are also super clean and sharp.
The crown at three is push/pull and measures about 4.8 x 3.6mm. It’s got a sort of squashed onion crown shape, with rounded and finely toothed sides and a signed outer surface. It’s an attractive design that works well with the case, even if it doesn’t directly reflect the rest of the design, having a more classical feel on a fairly modern case design.
Flipping the watch over, you have a display case back held on with 8 small screws. Through the display window, you can see the Oris 917 / SW 300-1 movement. It’s not very decorated, which is typically the case with Oris’, though it has their signature red rotor and what appears to be some level of plating and graining. Around the display window is a raised polished area with some details about the watch, which is encircled by a lower brushed area which contain the screws. I quite like the use of finishing on the case back, adding details to an often over looked surface.
Dial
Striking and beautiful, the dial of the Artelier Jumping Hour is unlike any other dial I’ve encountered. There are a few things that immediately jump out at you; the silver color, the cascading textures, the deep grooves…but what caught my eye first was the decentralized layout. If the large window at 12 wasn’t indication enough that this isn’t your everyday watch, certainly the fact that the minutes hand is off-center will. As is clear from the name, the window is for the hour numeral, which jumps at the top of hour, giving you a “digital” read out, but the decentralized minutes is a quirky bonus from the jump hour module.
The rest of the dial functions like a regulateur,with areas of the surface being just decorative. Encircling the minute hand is a deeply recessed index with numerals at intervals of 5 and small lines per individual minute. This creates a mini dial on the top half of the surface. Below at 6, is a sub-seconds dial, also deeply depressed into the main surface. The minute index and sub-seconds overlap, creating an interesting moment where various indexes and textures collide.
On the surrounding area, the negative space, you have a series of applied markers pointing towards the minutes, getting larger as they approach 6. The effect is a that of rays, emanating from the index. All areas of the dial are textured with a pressed Guilloché type pattern of wavy concentric circles, except the sub-seconds which has its own set of circles, all flowing from the minute hand. It’s a very attractive treatment with the affect of making the entire dial look like a burst of silvery light. Throw in the polished steel markers and hands, and you have a beautiful monochromatic landscape.
The post Oris Artelier Jumping Hour Review appeared first on worn&wound.
Continue reading...
Let us know your thoughts and impressions.
Jump hours are one of the more uncommon, but cool complications you can find on a watch. Well, in my opinion that is. By removing the hour hand and creating a digital readout, one that in a true jump hour instantly changes at the top of the hour, you get something that is both interesting and practical. Jump hours are really easy to read at a glance. Visually, they are then just intriguing pieces that, depending on the design, will have a very different look and feel from you standard three-hander.
Jump hours are so uncommon that we’ve actually only have reviewed one in the history of w&w. Well, today we’re going to change that with the Oris Artelier Jumping Hour. Part of one their dressier lines, the Jumping Hour stands out from the collection not just because of the complication, but also for having a rather unmistakeable, heavily textured dial. Using a Dubois Depraz module on a Sellita SW 300-1 movement, the Oris Artelier Jumping Hour has a price tag of $4,600, making it an expensive piece. Whether the complications justifies the cost, is the question.
Oris Artelier Jumping Hour Review
Case: SteelMovement: Oris 917 (SW 300-1 w/ DD 14400 Module)
Dial: Light silver
Lume: No
Lens: Sapphire
Strap: Leather
Water Res.: 50M
Dimensions: 40.5 x 47 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lug Width: 21 mm
Crown: 4.8 x 3.6mm
Price: $4,600
Case
The case of the Oris Jumping Hour is simple at a glance, but reveals a mix of interesting geometry and superb finishing upon closer inspection. Measuring 40.5 x 47 x 11.3mm it’s a solid watch that is perhaps large to be a classic dress watch, but a nice size as a formal leaning everyday watch. That said, the size is actually tempered by the conical design of the case. The case tapers towards the crystal, getting narrower as it goes up. So, it’s only 40.5 at the case back, but at the bezel it’s closer to 38mm. Thus, when you look down at it, it appears smaller than it is.
The conical shape isn’t the only interesting detail. The lugs, which are thick and a touch sporty with their aggressive angles, are actually part of the case back rather than mid-case. They come up, fitting perfectly in indentations on the case side, and finish just above the mid case. From above, the lugs appear to cut through, and attach straight to the bezel. The result of all this is some nice complexity that while subtle, adds to the overall look and luxurious feel of the watch. These are details that require great machining and precise tolerances to pull off cleanly.
In terms of finishing, the case is predominantly polished, but features just enough brushing to have some nice texture and surface variation. The top edge of the mid-case, just before the bezel, has a nice bevel going all around which is brushed. Then the top of the lugs and beveled edge of the lugs are also brushed. The quality of the brushing is noticeably nicer than average. It’s a slightly coarser grain of brushing with very clear grain direction. The edges between the polished and brushed areas are also super clean and sharp.
The crown at three is push/pull and measures about 4.8 x 3.6mm. It’s got a sort of squashed onion crown shape, with rounded and finely toothed sides and a signed outer surface. It’s an attractive design that works well with the case, even if it doesn’t directly reflect the rest of the design, having a more classical feel on a fairly modern case design.
Flipping the watch over, you have a display case back held on with 8 small screws. Through the display window, you can see the Oris 917 / SW 300-1 movement. It’s not very decorated, which is typically the case with Oris’, though it has their signature red rotor and what appears to be some level of plating and graining. Around the display window is a raised polished area with some details about the watch, which is encircled by a lower brushed area which contain the screws. I quite like the use of finishing on the case back, adding details to an often over looked surface.
Dial
Striking and beautiful, the dial of the Artelier Jumping Hour is unlike any other dial I’ve encountered. There are a few things that immediately jump out at you; the silver color, the cascading textures, the deep grooves…but what caught my eye first was the decentralized layout. If the large window at 12 wasn’t indication enough that this isn’t your everyday watch, certainly the fact that the minutes hand is off-center will. As is clear from the name, the window is for the hour numeral, which jumps at the top of hour, giving you a “digital” read out, but the decentralized minutes is a quirky bonus from the jump hour module.
The rest of the dial functions like a regulateur,with areas of the surface being just decorative. Encircling the minute hand is a deeply recessed index with numerals at intervals of 5 and small lines per individual minute. This creates a mini dial on the top half of the surface. Below at 6, is a sub-seconds dial, also deeply depressed into the main surface. The minute index and sub-seconds overlap, creating an interesting moment where various indexes and textures collide.
On the surrounding area, the negative space, you have a series of applied markers pointing towards the minutes, getting larger as they approach 6. The effect is a that of rays, emanating from the index. All areas of the dial are textured with a pressed Guilloché type pattern of wavy concentric circles, except the sub-seconds which has its own set of circles, all flowing from the minute hand. It’s a very attractive treatment with the affect of making the entire dial look like a burst of silvery light. Throw in the polished steel markers and hands, and you have a beautiful monochromatic landscape.
The post Oris Artelier Jumping Hour Review appeared first on worn&wound.
Continue reading...
Let us know your thoughts and impressions.